can I install 5/8 durarock above the flange on my shower base ?

I have to install durarock around a shower receptor, the receptor is cast iron kohler and the flange is pretty thick the instructions shows the wallboard shimmed out to overlap the receptor flange, can I install the wallboard to the flange and let the tile overlap the flange ?? the reason I was asking is because I'm afraid the bulge will not blend in well

Pack out all the walls around the shower base 1/8 1/4 or whatever is needed to be flush with the flange, then install your 1/2" drywall / cement board on top of the flange. please glue your packs and all your 1/2 material! no need for 5/8.

For More Information on Tile Overlap Follow The Links Below-

Tile Overlap Article

Tools For Tiling

For fixing ceramic tiles, a plumb line and spirit level are needed for setting out the rows to true verticals and horizontals; some slim wooden battens are needed to support the lowest tile rows as work progresses; a notched tile adhesive spreader, a tile cutter, a pair of pincers and a sponge are also necessary. A tile-culting jig will speed up cutting straight lines; a tile saw can cut curves. Use a sharp knife for cutting cork tiles; a pair of scissors or snips for metallic tiles; a glass cutter for mirror tiles and a brick bolster and club hammer for pressed imitation brick and stone tiles if necessary.

Finding the level
The next step is to establish an accurately level datum line around the room. Never trust a skirting board to be level more than likely using a skirting board as a level will mean that horizontal rows will not be truly horizontal, and as tiling is completed by returning to the starting point the rows will not line up.

Mark a line on the wall right round the room with a batten and a spirit level, to coincide with the bottom edge of the lowest row of whole tiles. Along this line pin slim battens to the wall with masonry nails; do not drive the nails home, since the battens will have to be prised off again. If nails cannot be driven into the wall (an old tile wall, say) get the battens horizontal by placing them on small stacks of tiles. Next, using a spirit level or plumb line, draw a true vertical line on the wall at the point where tiling is to start - at the edge of the last vertical row of whole tiles (on an unbroken wall) or coinciding with the first row of whole tiles alongside a window or door opening. A vertical batten can be nailed along this vertical line as an extra guide.

Fixing the tiles
Spread the tile adhesive on the wall with a notched spreader, covering an area of about one square metre at a time. Draw the spreader over the adhesive by pressing it down so that the teeth touch the plaster surface beneath; the notches then ensure that the adhesive is spread to a standard depth. Place the first tile on the horizontal batten, line its edge up with the vertical guide line and press it gently but firmly to the wall. Add the next tile alongside the first, with the spacer lugs just touching, and check that its face is level with that of the first tile. If the tiles do not have spacer lugs, use matchsticks or tile spacers between the tiles. Continue along the row until the edge of the area is reached, then add a second, third and fourth row, checking all the time that the tiles are accurately aligned with  each other. Spread more adhesive along the area above the wall batten, continuing to add whole tiles until the area is covered or until an obstruction such as a door or window sill is reached. From lime to time, use a spirit level on a batten to check that the tiles are truly horizontal.

Cutting tiles
At a window sill, it is usual to tile the reveals and the sill itself with round-edged or glazed-edged tiles which overlap the edges of the tiles on the face of the wall. So the next job is to mark and cut the pieces of tile to go on the wall beneath the window sill. Mark the tile with a felt pen or Chinagraph pencil, and then score the glazed face of the tile with a tile cutter. To snap the tile along the scored line, either press down on cither side of the line over a straight edge, or use a pair of tile snappers with angled jaws. If the cut edge is rough, use a tile rubbing stone (a sort of coarse abrasive resembling pumice stone) or an oilstone dampened with water to smooth the tile edges. To cut an L-shape, make one cut with a tile saw and the other with a tile cutter. Cut and fit the narrow pieces of tile that frame the window opening; then fit the round-edged tiles within the reveal, butting the round edge neatly over the edges of the cut pieces on the face of the wall. Complete the tiling of the reveals with whole tiles or cut pieces as necessary.

Tiling over door and window openings
Fix support battens over door and window openings to carry the first row of cut tiles over the opening. These, and the main support battens near skirting board level, must be left in place until the adhesive has had time to set - for at least 12 hours, and preferably for 24 - or the tiles will slip under their own weight. When they have been removed, cut and lit the border pieces needed to complete the tiling, buttering adhesive on to the back of each piece before pressing it into place. To cut border pieces turn the tile back to front, mark two points on the sides of the tiles for the position of the score line and then turn the tile over, score it and break it.

Turning a corner
When turning a corner, fix the first vertical row of whole tiles on the next wall before filling in the cut pieces in the angle. With patterned tiles, keep some semblance of pattern continuity by using cut pieces of the same tile to fill the gaps on each side of the angle.

Changes in level
When tiling over existing tiles that stop half-way up the wall, there is a change of level to cope with. If the step is relatively small, fix the last row of whole tiles with their top edges just above the step, and fill the gap behind with plaster, allowing this to harden before carrying on fixing whole tiles above the step. Steps more than about 12mm deep cannot be disguised in this manner. With these you can either stop tiling at the top of the old tiles and finish off the top of the tiling with a hardwood lipping or slips of cut tile set horizontally, or introduce a visual break in the form of a narrow wooden shelf or the quadrant tiles sold for fitting in the corner between a bath and the wall. The alternative is to bring the upper half of the wall up to the same level - with sheets of MDF or plasterboard, for example.

Grouting
When tiling is complete, the next job is to fill the gaps between the tiles with grout. Apply it with a plastic scraper or a sponge, forcing it well into the gaps between the tiles. Remove excess grout from the glaze as work progresses and smooth over the grout lines with a moistened finger or a small rounded slick - a used lollipop stick is ideal. Do not leave grout to set on the glaze as it may be difficult to get off. When the grout has set, polish the tile surface with a clean, dry cloth to finish the job.

About the Author

Also learn some other things to save some money and time which you would be paying to a professional to learn how to overflow cisterns and how to hang fabrics in your room.

Below Are A Few More Tile Overlap Items:

« Previous12Next »

Watch A Tile Overlap Video
TS3 Mapmaker How To: Item Stacking (Making bridge in "The Unseen")



We all trust the data and web links we have presented for Tile Overlap has been a beneficial help. If not, dont hesitate to browse deeper
through our web page to find far more concerning Tile Overlap

Search For More Tile Overlap

by using the search box or links on the side of the page. Thanks